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There's tons of different ways around the world and the footage (see video at bottom) I'm gonna be showing you is from a very special secret spot in Puerto Rico. If you've seen our video you can actually see some surfing footage from there and it's absolutely unreal.
The day that we went out was pretty dangerous, I guess you would say, if you're actually trying to go surfing. Instead we decided to go charge on the handplanes. In this spot in particular, break is not even 20 feet off of the shore.
Positioning at a beach break is super important. At this beach, the waves come in at deep water and you see it jacking up. But when it hits that shallow water it just fires and dumps. Beach breaks is where a nice set of fins is going help you most and it's really important to have them because if you take off to late on a beach break you're gonna get hung up with the lip and just thrown over.
If you're not paddling hard enough, you're never gonna catch the waves. And, again, if you're too far in front of it the wave is just gonna toss you and you're not gonna get barreled.
When you're paddling you need to be kicking and paddling your life away. You're going down a pretty much vertical face. On almost half of these waves we're taking off so late. It's just a free fall. Bodysurfing is a lot like surfing, it's all about speed and maintaining speed when you need it.
When you make that bottom turn, you wanna make sure that you lean into the barrel and don't lose all your speed because if you do you're just gonna get sucked and thrown over. I'll actually push down on my board and lift myself up out of the water. It will give you more push and less drag on my body, read the waves.
You have to know what wave is gonna do what. I mean, I've been in the water for 12 years and they're still those sets that come through and I get completely lit up. Remember it takes lots of practice, paddle hard, commit and be safe guys. It is super fun to surf a beach break but like I said, you are going to get drilled in the sand. It's gonna let you understand how powerful the ocean really is.
