You're experiencing mother nature at its rawest, it's only you and that wave completely immersed.
You'll get that wave that will just stand out in your mind for eternity, it's like a first kiss.
All the footage that we get from all our ambassadors, everybody always says the same thing, and it's so true. You see these guys come up from a wave, and they've got this big smile on their face, and they're like "Oh my God."
You can see it...
It's just this uncontrollable deep down like joy that you get from riding a wave. It takes me back to being a kid again.