Mother Ocean provides!
The other Slyder went out first, and as soon as I was out with him a set popped up. I didn't even stop swimming, I just swam left for the peak and took off. (Too bad no photos this time.) We both scored solid rights all the way to the rocks.
As soon as I got back another wave bowled up - the classic Panics right. The swell starts on the other side of the channel at Kewalos (shark in Hawaiian) and it bends around the deeper water, then re-pops on the Kaka'ako side.
If you take off too deep you will get closed out. But if hit just right, the take-off launches you down a clean open face that stands up and lifts you right into the pocket.
Then I laid back into it, left arm up, and slipped into the barrel and stayed covered for a nice long ride right to the rocks. Awesome way to remember Point Panic and the super talented Panic crew who have invented incredible maneuvers that work perfectly with this beautiful peeling, barreling right.
Next up is an article called 'Are You Ready to Panic?' We'll get into the safety and etiquette of surfing one of the world's finest bodysurfing waves.
Aloha and Mahalo.
Slyde Team Ryder